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Vintage Grab Bag Rod Sample Beads and Working Tips

Click to view Vintage Grab Bag Rods product page, prices and inventory

A grab bag package could include any of the below, none of the below, items from our normal sales pages, or items not on this list. Below are tests and images from grab bag glass I have used for color and testing purposes. The good, the bad and the ugly are here with overall working tips at the bottom of the page.
The lattichino to the left was pulled from the hexagonal clear glass with black stripes on each raised edge. This glass was originally used in chandeliers.

To pull the lattichino- heat the end of the rod slowly- quick heating will result in the black popping off the clear and leaving you with a clear hexagon. There are two ways I have successfully pulled after this.

  1. Insert a heated mandrel tip into the molten end of the striped rod. Begin to heat just to the left (if right handed) of the molten area. I push the glass slowly into a blob as it melts always heating just beyond the growing blob and trying to keep the lines straight on the blob. If they do twist, I make sure they are twisting evenly in the direction I want them as I go. When I have a large enough striped blab, I remove from the heat, let the glass form a  skin and pull into a stringer while twisting with both hands
  2. Insert a heated mandrel tip into the molten end of the striped rod. Begin to heat just to the left (if right handed) of the molten area. Slowly twist both sides and pull the mandrel away from the rod while slowly moving the rod right to heat further down. This results in a very even pull once you get your rhythm going.

This rod looks pale amethyst and melts to the same color. I mixed it here with Effetre EDP, Copper Green and Intense Black.

The second bead is vintage black on the same glass with a raku twistie on top. You can see the bubbles here from skipping the melt and remove step which is helpful when you start a transparent rod. The directions for this are in the working tips at the end of the page.


This was a milky rod I was hoping would make a good base. It did not stand up well to payers of Effetre melted in and I ended up with incompatibility cracks around each flower and vine. The color may make a good base for Reichenbach and System 96.

 


Transparent grey and vintage white. This is a smooth and easy color.

This is from a hexagon shaped rod. These rods usually have a hole through the middle and were originally used in chandeliers. You can slice them and use as is, or melt them for bubbly results. The rod will shock easily- keep in the high heat until you see a small amount of red appear.

This transparent amber red is gorgeous alone or with other 96 colors. However, the image to the left shows why you don't want to mix even a little Effetre with it. This rod can hide with the browns- I have to look at it next to an amber to find the red tinged glass. It is a transparent cherry that is delicious as a solo color.

This is an icy blue in rod form that does not change when melted. I have used this with Reichenbach and Effetre in relatively large amounts as shown with no compatibility issues.

I do have a report of this color cracking over the vintage white.


I have only mixed this so far with other 96 compatible glasses which has been successful. The rod is thick with a beige/peach on the outside and a large clear core. There is a very small amount of this glass that I have found so far. It is a clear core swirly glass and can be worked like the clear core orange - the biggest thing to remember is to keep your hand steady and the glass in the middle of the bead if you want even circles.
   
   
   

Working Tips

  • The warm transparents do not play well with 104

  • The cool transparents so far can be mixed with anything you throw at them from 90-104

  • Check the individual page for any glass that is listed for sale separately

  • The transparents attract dust- I'd recommend at least a swipe with a  clean cloth before using

  • The first drop of the transparents will often bubble as you can see in some of the images above - getting the tip molten and removing the first melted bit will remedy that





 

 
 

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